Author Carole Kessler
of Kessler's Chinchillas
Chinchilla Questions
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Chinchillas are creatures of habit, and do best when placed on a set schedule. As their caretakers, it is up to us to create and maintain their life style. This is best done at the very beginning as it can be difficult to change something once you have created it. Chinchillas have wonderful memories for not only the good things in life, but also the negative ones. It is important to have this formulated before you begin your chinchilla’s life style.
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When chinchillas are first introduced to their new daily lifestyle, they will place this information into their memory banks and will expect this to continue. When you set up their feeding program, it is best to select the proper one to start with. When a chinchilla does not experience feed outside of their basic diet of pellets, hay, and their special treat, they will be unaware of other things. Therefore, they will neither desire nor expect it. Playtime is another example. When playtime is set up, it is best to set an exact time allowed for time out. At first, if chinchillas are not allowed out for hours of unlimited playtime, but have a delegated amount of time allotted for play, they will be satisfied with the time they have.
If the chinchilla likes what you have presented to them, good luck in trying to remove it from their daily routine. We all know what it is like if a chinchilla has health problems and shouldn’t be allowed out for playtime. They sure let you know how upset they are with you. To avoid potential problems, these issues should be dealt with before hand so the chinchillas know their limits. They will be happy with what you choose for them if they have no prior experience but, even then, you can slowly mold them to your pattern of doing things.
Having the proper information on chinchillas when you start can mean all the difference in the world as their health and well being. There is so much information and it is difficult to determine which ones to follow. Years ago, when I was faced with this situation, I sought the help of someone who had years of experience and is one of the top authorities in the chinchillas industry. I would not be where I am today if I had not sought this guidance. Nothing can replace experience and knowledge.
Presented here are some very important questions which have been presented from concerned chinchilla owners. We encourage chinchilla owners to contact us with your questions and experience, which can be used in future articles. Your experiences help us to help others. We all have our own ideas as to what is best for our chinchillas. Some of these ideas are not always accepted and shared by everyone. Therefore, we must each make the choice of which to follow.
PREGNANCY & DELIVERY
Q: MATTI: My female is pregnant, and I am confused with some of the information which I have read on this subject. We need to know if the male should be removed from the female when she has her babies. Should I remove him before or after the birth? Will the male do harm to the babies if he is left with the female? I have read that the female can do a breed back. What does this mean, and should it be allowed? This is our first experience, and we are very concerned that something will go wrong.
A: There are different methods to choose from when the babies arrive. My own personal way of doing things is to leave the male with the female unless she is on her second breed back. The females can become pregnant within seven days of the birth. For some, a few more breeding days are possible. Over the years, some of my females have gone longer than seven days after the birth of the babies before breeding. Two litters in a row is possible as long as your female is receiving a high quality feeding program, and given the extra supplements necessary to provide her with all the nutritional needs. If you find the female has done a breed back after the first litter, remove the male at the birth of the babies and keep him out for at least ten days before putting him back in. Once the babies are weaned the male must be removed for at least ten days to two weeks. The female will go through a hormonal change following the removal of the babies, and may go into a heat cycle and become pregnant again. Health wise, this could be too much for some females.
Some males have been known to attempt a breeding with the female as they open and prepare for birth. This male should be removed from the cage as the female does not need the advances of a male for breeding when she has yet to deliver her babies.
When the male is removed, his cage can be placed right next to her cage. If I choose to return him after several days, the female is more apt to accept him back. Sometimes, when the male leaves the cage, the female may not let him back until the babies are weaned. Most often a first time mother will behave in this manner.
When my females are in labor, I place a water bottle within easy reach. Our whole grain supplement, pellets, hay cubes, and a slice of apple are placed within easy reach of the female without her having to move around the cage. Many of the females will not go in search of food or water, and they do need a pick me up at this time. My females are also given Nutri-Cal, which is a high caloric paste just before the birth and when she is in labor. All of this appears to be of help to the female when she has some source of nourishment and fluids during her labor.
Care must be taken if you choose to leave the male in the cage with the female and the babies. Once the babies are born the male usually attempts to breed the female. The most serious attempts are at night. A baby hideaway is needed to protect the babies during this encounter, which can get wild at times. Babies have been known to be injured or worse if they do not have a place to hide. There are several types of baby creeps which you can use. One source is a small can which has both ends removed. The sharp edges are removed and the can is slightly flattened to prevent it from rolling onto the babies. Be sure to disinfect what ever you use for this purpose.
Males have been known to attack the babies when they interfere with their attempts to breed. When this occurs, remove the male or, if you want the breed back, place them in another cage away from the babies for a couple of hours. You could remove the babies instead.
Some information states that if the male is not the father of the babies, he most likely will attack and kill them. This can occur and on a couple of occasions I have experienced this. However, most of the time, I find the males accept and care for the babies as if they were his own. It appears the problem is due more to the fact that the males want to breed and the babies present an obstacle for them. There have been only two situations, which I am aware of, when the father killed his own baby while trying to attempt breeding. He was removed, and after his second litter, settled down and no problems occurred after this. In another situation, the female was already pregnant when she arrived and her new mate was younger than she was. After the birth, in his attempts to breed, the baby was in the way and consequently lost his life. For me, it appears these problems occur more with the males on their first or second breeding attempts. They get frustrated when someone is in their way, but once they become veteran breeders this discontinues most of the time.
SAME SEX PAIRS
Q: I do not want to have chinchilla babies. Will 2 males or 2 females live together okay?
A: This may be the only choice you have if you do not want babies. This is how most pet owners manage to have a buddy for their chins without the patter of little paws. Some owners do choose to have their chins fixed, but this is not always the best choice. There are different opinions on two males living together, and I have had great success over the years with this method. Until I know how my males will be used in breeding they have other male cage buddies. The same applies to the females. Large ranchers place their chinchillas in their own individual cages, but I prefer to have my chinchillas socialized. This makes for better introductions and helps customers who already have one chinchilla add the new one they are getting from me. I also make sure the chinchillas, which my customers plan to pair up, are already together before they arrive.
When females in neighboring cages go into their cycles, some males may have a reaction and scrap. They may also get excited at the impending birth of the babies or following when a breed back is going on. Most of the time, these scraps are not too wild. If and when the fighting becomes serious they need to be separated for a short time. It is also best to have a hide away in the males’ cages. Very seldom do I ever have to make a change in the chinchilla rooms. When you have large numbers of chinchillas and cages, you are not able to move everyone around. Males who have a tendency to get over excited at times, should be placed in special areas.
If you have two males and no females in the area, they may at times have little spiffs. This also applies to females. These can range from barks and snaps, to getting a little more physical and serious. When fur flies and they begin to bite each other it is best to place them apart for a few days. I would recommend they do not have playtime together until they have been reunited in their cage together. This can only be fuel to the fire.
When my customers do not want to have babies, they purchase two males who live together just fine. When doing this type of set up, I make sure the males are young and this helps to reduce the possibility of future conflicts. Many fights which occur in males usually are those who where not placed together when they were very young. Older males can be placed together, but I would suggest they not be older than six months. Anytime you do the introduction of chinchillas, care must be taken not to force the introduction to soon.
PAIRED CHINCHILLAS NOT EATTING
Q: What is my problem? I am worried about my chin. He is a year old and recently after getting him a mate, he became quite thin. He is still very energetic and is perfectly healthy except for his weight. Have you any suggestions?
A: One of the breeders on the group told us she also had this situation occur. After a couple of trips to the vet, they were stumped. They tried putting an extra feed dish in the cage, and he began to eat again. It appears he did not like sharing his food dish with his new female nor the water bottle as well. This breeder finally found a solution for the quirks in the chinchilla’s personality, but points out the need for a vet visit being very important in many situations.
Q: If I have a problem, what should I do?
A: This will depend on the extent of the problem. You should contact the person you purchased your chinchilla from as they would have any prior records and family tree information. The problem might be genetic. When it is a medical problem, a prompt visit to the vet is needed. I find a great many problems occur on the weekends, holidays, or when the vet office is closed. Thankfully, there are emergency clinics available. Not all of them are experienced with chinchilla problems, so you need an alternative plan. Therefore, an experienced breeder will also be helpful. Chances are, they will have more information and advice as years of experience is the best source of knowledge.
I have been training for the past sixteen years with one of the top authorities in the chinchillas industry in their proper care and breeding, and have extensive training in the areas of ranch medicine and working with sick chinchillas. My weekends, holidays, and evenings are usually spent working with frightened chinchilla owners who find me. If they can live through the many questions which I might have for them, I will be able to give them an idea of what the problem might be. When they go for their vet visit, they will have some information as a starting point. This can save a lot of valuable time, and yes, even money when they have a place to start.
For more information on the above subjects or other chinchilla situations please contact me at ckessler@earthlink.net.
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