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Author Christi
Paw-Talk

Chinchilla Health and Care Guide



Adult weight: Males = 400-500 grams;
Females = 400-600 grams
Life span: Usual = 10 years;
maximum = 20 years
Body temperature: 96.8 -100.4F
Heart rate: 100 beats/minute
Puberty: 8-10 months
Breeding season: November - May
Estrous cycle: usual 40 days;
range 16 - 69 days
Litter size: average 2; range 1-6
Litters per year: 2
Birth weight 35 grams
Eyes open: yes
Wean: 6-8 weeks

Choosing a Chinchilla:

When you choose your chinchilla, you must first decide on a few things.

a. Sex
b. Quantity
c. Color
d. Quality

Some say that males make better pets, especially as single pets. I, however, think that either sex is equally friendly and loveable! It really is up to you how your chin reacts to you. As for pairing, it is much easier to pair a male with a female than two of the same sex, unless you do so at a very young age. It is not impossible, but may prove more difficult. Males and females alike can be very territorial and there are steps you should take when trying to introduce 2 chins, which I will cover later.
If you decide to get more than one chinchilla, you must first decide whether or not you want to breed, or if you just want your chinnies to have cage buddies. Chinchillas do fine alone, and do not need a cage mate, they will not get lonely if you devote time to them. They will love you just as much as they would another chinchilla. One word of advice from my experience, if you do decide to get a cage mate for your chin, prepare to be pushed out of the picture, as you will become a food dispenser and will no longer be needed by the chins as they will have each other. This happens very often.
The color of a chin really has no bearing on the chin. We, as buyers, are the ones who are partial to different colors, so what color you choose really only matters if you desire a specific color.
The quality of a chinchilla is determined by a few factors; thickness/quality of fur, size and shape. Be prepared to pay more for a “show quality” chin.
No matter what chinchilla you choose, just make sure they are healthy. Avoid getting your chinchilla from a pet store, as they often do not know much about the care of a chinchilla and it’s very seldom that they can tell you much information about the chinchilla, such as its’ date of birth, and parentage. The best place to get a chinchilla is from a reputable breeder.
When choosing your chinchilla, choose one that will come to you and sniff your hand. They all have their own personalities, and most will be skittish to a certain extent, since you are not familiar to them, but try and choose one that is not skittish.
Always be sure to check their eyes and teeth before purchasing. Their eyes should be clear, not runny and the surrounding fur should be free from any matting. Teeth should be yellowish-orange, and the front teeth should not hang down over the lower teeth. Also check also and see that they don't have any bald spots, if they do, that could mean they either have a fur fungus, or a tendency to chew their fur, which is usually genetic and/or stress induced and is not a good sign. Also check to make sure their stools are not loose. Make sure their chins and paws are not wet, for this signals drooling, which signals teeth problems.

Things to do before bringing home your chinchilla:

·Purchase a cage and the things on the "Chin List."
·Set up the cage in a nice, quiet area of your home, out of direct sunlight and drafts.
·Purchase a carrier in which to transport your chinchilla, the plastic cat carriers at Wal-Mart are great.

Choosing a Cage:

There are many materials that can be used for chinchilla cages; wood, metal, stainless steel, and wire. Plastic should never be used in a cage unless it is done in a way so that the chinchilla can not get to it. And aquariums should never, ever be used to house a chinchilla. They do not provide enough ventilation or room for exercise. Cages should be big enough so that the chinchillas have plenty of room to move around, the general rule is 2x2x2 ft. per chinchilla.
Cages should be cleaned at least once a week. For bedding you can use aspen, kiln dried pine, or newspaper. Never use cedar or pine chips, the oils are very toxic to your chinchilla, and can cause liver and respiratory problems. The wire spacing of cages comes under much debate, I recommend no larger than 1x1 with the bottom being no larger than ½ x½. That’s another thing that’s highly debated, whether or not your cage bottom should be solid or wire. I think either is fine, and personally all of my cages have wire bottoms and I have never had any problems.
There are many good places to buy a cage (see resources). And you can always build your own. If you choose to build your cage, you should use untreated pine if you choose to make it out of wood and never use plywood, as it is toxic to chinchillas. Built cages can be great not only because they have plenty of wood for them to chew on but it also gives you the opportunity to design your cage exactly how you want it.

Going Home:

On the ride home, try and make your chinchilla as comfortable as possible, as traveling can be stressful for them. If it’s summer, be sure you keep the car cool. If it’s winter, keep it warm, but not too warm, as chinchillas can easily overheat, and this can cause problems.
When you get home carefully place your chinchilla into his new home. Be sure he has plenty food and water. Make sure has plenty of room to explore and leave him alone for the first couple days. Don’t try and handle him or let him out, as he needs this time to adjust. Don't rush your chinchilla. Take your time. Speak softly to him, and make sure he has quiet surroundings during the day. After a couple of days you can begin to approach him, moving slowly.
If you purchased more than one chinchilla, and they were not previously housed together, you will need to first place them in separate cages before testing to see if they will get along. Place the cages side by side so they can get used to each other. And give them time.

Handling:

While chinchillas need to be handled carefully and with care, you should not be afraid to hold your chinchilla, as this is a big part of them bonding with you. Some say that the proper way to handle a chinchilla when first picking one up is to hold on to the base of their tail, and slide a hand under their belly. I do not use nor advocate this method. I use both hands to grab their middle then cradled them against my body. True, most of them do not like to be held around their ribcage, but if your chinchilla has been handled from birth he should be used to it, and you will soon discover the best way of handling your chinchilla. If you choose to pick them up by the base of their tail, never, under any circumstances hold them upside down by grabbing their tail. Chins tails are very delicate, and if they were to begin struggling, it could break their tail. Before you attempt to pick up your chin, let him get to know you. Start by letting them get to know your scent. The tried and true method of treat-giving is a sure winner!
To begin with feed them a treat through the cage wires. Once you have mastered this, try opening the cage door and handing them a treat. Place the treat on the tips of your fingers or on your palm and patiently hold your hand still inside the cage. Once they get used to you, they should easily walk up to your hand and take the treat, usually placing both paws on your open hand to take the treat. Once you and your chin have gotten comfortable with this stage, place the treat up on your forearm and let them crawl up your arm. This will take some time and patience, the younger the chin, the easier it will be.

Dust Bathing:

Unlike other animals, chinchillas take baths in dust. These dust baths are very important to a chinchilla’s health as they ensure that their coats stay healthy and free of debris. The frequency with which you give dust baths will depend on your climate. If you live in a humid climate you will want to give your chin his bath anywhere from 3 times a week to every day. If your climate is dry, once a week to no more than 3 times a week is sufficient. Too much bathing can cause your chins skin to dry out, which can lead to other problems.
You can use pretty much anything as a dust bath container. Cat litter box, fish bowl, cardboard box, bathtub, plastic bins, cookie jars, and there are bath houses manufactured solely for this purpose, that is what I use.

Food and Nutrition:

I have been working closely with a good friend who is a veterinarian nutritionist on the best/worst foods, supplements and treats for chinchillas. We have done extensive research and created a website with the information here:
Here are the basics. Your chinchilla needs about 2 tablespoons of pellets each day. He also needs a continual source of timothy hay with about 3-4 alfalfa once a week. Cubed or loose is up to you, I prefer cubed as it’s more fun for the chins and not only aids in keeping their teeth trimmed, but it stores more easily and makes less of a mess in the cage. Your chin should have a constant supply of fresh water; I use filtered or bottled water and change it daily. For treats you can give any number of things, raisins are a favorite. Make sure you limit treats to one a day, no matter how cute your chin looks when he begs.

Exercise:

Exercise is essential to your chins health. If possible, get your chinchilla a wheel, they can be pricey but it’s worth it to ensure that your chin can exercise safely in it. You can also let your chin out to run at night in an enclosed room where they can't get hurt, make sure you always “chin-proof” this room, getting down on your hands and knees and making sure there is nothing that they can eat , chew or get hurt on. Wires and cords are very dangerous for your chinchilla, because they love to chew so much. Anything you do not wish for them to get hold of needs to be removed from their area of play. Also note that you MUST be in the room supervising at all times that your chin is loose! Free run is not necessary, nor do we recommend it, unless you have a room that can be totally dedicated to your chinchilla, because they could get spooked easily and injure them in some way. However, if you choose to allow free run, never chase them, this causes your chin a lot of stress, and will teach him not to trust you. Also be careful not to startle them by grabbing them too quickly or they will release a handful of fur. This does not hurt them, it is merely an escape mechanism, but it will let you know that you have scared them.

Teeth:

Chinchillas’ teeth should be a yellowish-orange and the top teeth should not hang over the bottom teeth. Make sure your chinchilla has a lot of good chew toys to help keep their teeth shaved down. Chinchillas constantly chew, as their teeth are constantly growing. I keep wooden chew blocks and toys in my chins’ cages for them to chew on.
If you notice your chins teeth are rather long it is best to take them to a vet so they can have their teeth filed down. If you see them drooling, this is a sure sign of teeth problems or malocclusion. This is usually a genetic problem when the teeth are growing at an angle. Malocclusion is caused by bad positioning of teeth and retention of primary teeth when secondary teeth come in. This can cause many problems for your chinchilla, such as mouth sores and eating problems, which result in weight loss and can lead to death. If you see any of these signs, please take your chin to a vet immediately.

Chinchilla Supply List:

·Food (I feed Mazuri, you will need to have whatever food your breeder feeds, if you plan to switch your chin to another diet, you must do so slowly over a period of time.)

·Hay - Timothy and Alfalfa, blocks or loose.

·Water Bottle - Needs to be decent sized, I use plastic, some use glass.

·Food bowl - ceramic (any bowl that cannot be easily knocked over will do)

·Treats - Chinchillas LOVE raisins, also dried bananas. All treat must be given in moderation. Most of the treat mixes in the pet stores are not great, and I recommend making your own.

·Sleeping Box - I recommend that everyone get one of these for their chinchillas, they need somewhere to hide and sleep. I have a wooden box that is on the top level of the cage, I also have a large PVC pipe in the bottom of the cage that they love to hide in. You can make your own or purchase one.

·Wheel -This is not necessary but is wonderful for your chins.

·Bedding - Kiln Dried Pine, Aspen or Newspaper.

·Bottled water or a water filter

·Chew Toys

  


KANGAROO CONNECTION
Mousepads, Ornaments, t-shirts, bowls,
mugs, cookie jars, roadsigns, stickers,
and an inexpensive plush chinchilla toy!
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