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 1 
 on: Today at 08:52:02 PM 
Started by lifeisgood.lisha - Last post by littlejaypops
This is the website I used to help me decipher their noises :)
http://infolific.com/pets/chinchillas/chinchilla-sounds/

 2 
 on: Today at 05:02:45 PM 
Started by jaimieshaw - Last post by GrayRodent
4 months is a good age to get a chin. Most chinchillas need a week or two to adjust and get used their new surroundings and new owners. Bonding is a two way process with chinchillas and sometimes it takes some time.

 3 
 on: Today at 03:35:20 PM 
Started by jaimieshaw - Last post by jaimieshaw
He's 4 months old, but I've seen him in the pet store for the past month. He is now eating, drinking, and pooping adequately. I figured that the sooner I started handling him, the quicker he would bond to me. I'll leave him alone for a week, just as you suggested, with limited interaction through the cage. Thank you for the advice!

 4 
 on: Today at 06:36:50 AM 
Started by Mannybilly1030 - Last post by GrayRodent
In general chinchillas don't like to be picked up and held. They are very sensitive especially when you come down on their back or from behind. They are designed to evade predators such as eagles and foxes and will try to thrash around if they are restrained. If they do it's important they are not allowed to do that as they can seriously injure themselves, especially if it happens inside of the cage.

I've found in my pet, Kulu, that after he was conditioned and then accustomed to being held and handled that there are times when he will jump into my hands because he craves the attention. Like any animal they won't always be in the mood for doing that so usually you have to be the one that initiates it. It is very helpful to learn how to read animals and be observant.

 5 
 on: Today at 06:26:24 AM 
Started by Mannybilly1030 - Last post by GrayRodent
That's funny. I call it the 'crazy five minutes'. Every kind of pet I've had, cats, dogs, horses, goats, birds, have that on occasion.

 6 
 on: Today at 06:23:10 AM 
Started by jaimieshaw - Last post by GrayRodent
How old is your chinchilla? What you describe sounds like it may have been separated at too young of an age. This kind of behavior is not exactly normal for a new chinchilla but not unheard of either. Each animal is going to be different. My chinchilla will bark sometimes when he is disturbed from his sleep during the day. Sometimes I think he does it to get me to pick him up.

I recommend putting the cage in a quiet place away from a lot of commotion. Don't reach into the cage but interact through the bars and door of the cage as long as your chinchilla will come to you. Don't let him out of the cage for at least a week.
Measure his food and water levels. Make sure there is a good amount of poop in the cage each morning. If there isn't, and there is no indication he is eating, there is something seriously wrong and it must be dealt with immediately or you will lose your pet.
Most chinchillas will eat and drink mostly late at night. I rarely see mine drinking during the day. The water level always goes down about 2cm (for the diameter of bottle I use) between bedtime and in the morning. He usually eats several times during the day but he'll still eat mostly at night after I've gone to bed.

Just leave the cage as is and don't introduce anything new for at least a couple of weeks. (Of course make sure he has wood to chew on at all times) Relocation is always stressful for chinchillas.

Make sure the room temperature stays below 75F and is in an environment that is not noisy, in direct sunlight, or has pets like dogs or cats around, which can also cause extreme stress. Over time your pet will calm down and get used to its new place. It make take a week or two but you should see progressive improvement. After that start handling him more often and he will be less easily frightened.

 7 
 on: Today at 03:00:34 AM 
Started by jaimieshaw - Last post by jaimieshaw
Hi! I'm a new chin owner, and I'm having a few problems. First off, I've had Gizmo for 3 days, and he seems to cry when I try to introduce new toys to him. Is this normal when they are scared? I called my vet about it, and she said that it was NOT normal for them to cry when afraid, but I think they are just trying to get me to pay for emergency services, because the books that I have read all confirm that it is normal. Second, I'm having a hard time getting Gizmo to drink out of a water bottle. He did it a couple of times this morning, but this is the first time (at least in my presence) that I've seen him do it. Is there an easier way to get him used to it? And finally, what is the best way to introduce new toys to him? He was so scared when I put his wheel in for the first time! I don't want to stress him out!

 8 
 on: Yesterday at 11:04:14 PM 
Started by Mannybilly1030 - Last post by Mannybilly1030
lol its funny both my chins throw tantrums after playing. they go to there toy bowl and tip it over and literally make a huge mess, then they go to there food bowl carry some pellets and run to there hammock and leave there pellets there. and they both run around there cage and make noise until they get tired

 9 
 on: Yesterday at 10:55:40 PM 
Started by Mannybilly1030 - Last post by Mannybilly1030
Some animals have a naturally nervous disposition. This goes for just about any species and that is some individuals make good pets and others don't so if you can't get this one to turn around please don't feel too bad. This is the first time I've ever heard of a rodent that drinks water because it is nervous. It's not uncommon with pet birds though.

I used to have a chinchilla like that and it was one of those rare males that will spray urine (they can't really spray as it just dribbles out) when I cornered him. It took months of working with him before he was manageable. It took some weeks before I was able to pick him up to move him to the dust bath without the threat of getting bit. My strategy was to interact in the cage as much as possible many times a day. I would open the door, give him a piece of raisin, and I would sometimes touch him just by the tip of the nose because that was the only place he'd let me touch him without running off. After several days I would pet him further back on the head and chin and he'd except that. Then I'd progress towards his back. Then after about three weeks of that I would try to get one hand under his front feet. Then do that for the back feet. After about a month I was able to hold him but only for a second or two and then I'd immediately return him to the cage. This was done about 10 times a day. Then I'd do it in longer increments until he would tolerate it for 20 seconds or more. By the time I had him put to sleep for tooth problems, about 8 months later, I could hold him for about two minutes and pet him. Anything more than that he would threaten to bite. During this time I also took him out of the cage (by letting him run into a container) and sat in a shower stall with him where he couldn't get away from me. I would let him roam around and crawl over me for about 20 minutes a day. Each week I would do more with him so I could pet his head and back and eventually hold him in the stages I described. Chinchillas are trainable but it takes time, experimentation, and great patience. They are some of the most trainable pets I've ever had. He never got very tame but he was manageable and could be handled. My second chinchilla is extremely tame. He will lay across my chest and let me pet him for an hour if I wanted to and come back for more when I try to put him away. He didn't start out that way but he was obtained from a breeder at about 3 months and handled many times a day. No chinchilla will ever be completely stress free. They are hard wired to constantly look for danger but they can be desensitized by frequent handling where you don't get them to the point of being startled, biting, or slipping fur. If those things happen learn from it and try again. Eventually you should succeed.

thank you so much its working slowly and im having progress. he is smelling my finger and eating from my hand now but he doesn't want me carring him or moving him so my other chin can eat to

 10 
 on: Yesterday at 03:57:26 PM 
Started by Chins4Life089 - Last post by GrayRodent
First thing to do is make sure the room temperature is below 75F. If it is not there is a possbility the seizure was caused by overheating and you should get the temp down or the others may also be at risk. Overheating causes brain swelling and seizures if it is severe.

If you are willing to have it checked out they may be able to help you make a diagnosis. If your pet is still seizing and not eating or drinking properly anti-seizure meds sometimes help. Sometimes it is diabetes, which is easy to treat in chinchillas, just don't give them any fruit, raisins, or sugar-containing foods. Also certain nutrient deficiencies, or exposure to toxins can cause it. Although the others are not effected I recommend checking the food for moisture contamination. If the hay or pellets smells damp or moldly replace it immediately. Sometimes it is a genetic condition, epilepsy, which can also be managed more easily once you've identified it. A heart problem can also account for it and may be diagnosable with blood work. There are many things that can cause the kind of seizure you describe. The bad thing is it may take blood work to diagnose that, which, may be expensive. I strongly recommend calling your vet and asking questions. Otherwise you'll just have to wait a few days, do the best you can, and see if she pulls through. Sometimes there is no hope in these kinds of cases. If you obtained this chinchilla from a breeder I also recommend calling them and explaining your situation. A reputable breeder will do their best to remove animals with genetic problems from their herds.

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