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 on: Yesterday at 07:24:17 AM 
Started by Mannybilly1030 - Last post by BLS Chins
Bag balm should be enough to take care of it. It has an antiseptic in it to help prevent infections. Just monitor the area and if it gets larger or the chin keeps bothering at it, then a vet visit is needed

 on: February 10, 2016, 06:22:52 AM 
Started by Mannybilly1030 - Last post by GrayRodent
What you describe is commonly caused from the urine. The skin gets dried and cracked. Certainly have a vet look at it and diagnose it as best as possible. (See response below) Bumblefoot is usually characterized by swelling and infection. You want to make sure it won't get that far.
Chances are you'll be prescribed a topical salve. (Perhaps you should try bag balm first. If swelling occurs see a vet immediately.) Moisturizers seem to help. It's a problem that takes a long to fix once it starts and it could take months of treatment and careful strategy.

I'm not sure if changing from plastic to metal will make much of a difference for that. (Although I strongly recommend you switch to metal anyway for other reasons). You should be using bedding such as pine chips in the pan to soak up the urine. If you're using fleece liners I recommend switching to pine. This is a problem that seems happen more often with fleece but not always. Chinchillas typically urinate in one corner or area in the cage. If they aren't doing that try move the soiled bedding into one corner every day so the smell will attract them (between normal bedding changes which for two chinchillas should be around once a week.) If you do it more often you may want to wait a week to help establish a potty areas. They shouldn't have a hut or other toys in that soiled area.

 on: February 10, 2016, 12:36:56 AM 
Started by Mannybilly1030 - Last post by Mannybilly1030
Hi everyone i havent been on for quite sometime as the chins have been doing good but today i notice chachis foot had a bit of blood. Then i also noticed him either grooming the area or possibly picking at it. I did clean the blood off with some water and cleaned the wound with a little peroxide and some bag balm to keep it from cracking or getting any other bacteria. My mom did say if it bleeds again or looks infected we will take him to the vet on friday since we do have a memorial tomorrow and thursday for my grandma that passed away last year. But as of now my dad is going to check up on him through out the night. I dont know if it could be possible bubble foot? The foot pad looked a little red it wasnt warm or hot to the touch. His other foot pad looks good so that one im not to worried about. He does have a habit of sitting on his pee even after rearraging there huts he still will go sit by the pee or go find another spot and pee and sit there. I am planning to switch there plastic pans to stainless bass pans so i can avoid all plastic so their pee wont soak up on the plastic or anything.

 on: February 09, 2016, 07:52:00 AM 
Started by xktee - Last post by GrayRodent
Welcome to our boards and congrats on your new pet. Sounds like you're going to need to work with your chinchilla for a while. My first thoughts are you may be trying to go too fast with him.

Typically chinchillas are quite stressed the first two weeks after relocation and some of them seem to go into a state of shock. While they're in that state they tolerate being handled in ways they normally do and when they come out of it they act a bit more like they normally did before the relocation. When it comes to chinchillas that are not well socialized they revert to a more stand-offish mode.

My advice is to start as if you're initiating the taming process on an animal that more than likely is not used to being handled and is fearful of human interaction. The barking is a sign that it is trying to drive you off. (If it were my pet I'd probably pick him up, hold him for few seconds and then put him back to not allow him to think he can drive me off but don't overdo that if that technique fails.) If it were a female chinchilla it would also try to spray you with urine. Some males try but they don't get very far so be observant of this especially if he's outside of the cage.

You'll need to further condition him to be handled. It's something that will take several weeks but you're pretty much there now. Considering you haven't been bitten tells me he is not totally wild so you're not starting from scratch which is good. You have some good things going for you, especially that he'll let you scratch him, and that he'll come to you in the cage. Keep in mind that chinchillas tend to be independent and they are not always in the mood to play with you. Chinchillas typically are not cuddly pets like cats or dogs so don't feel bad if you find they're hard to please.

My advice is take it in gradual steps and avoid upsetting your pet by startling him. Take him out of his cage and hold him for a few seconds and then put him back in. Repeat this several times a day and you'll see gradual improvement each day. Over weeks and months extend this time out and eventually your pet will not care near as much that he's being handled. Chinchillas typically don't like to be held and restrained. My chinchillas do but it was work to get them there.

Open the door and see if you can get him to play with you through the door of the cage. Go to the cage just to play and not try to touch or remove him from the cage. Do this often. I have cage with really big doors and I'll stick my head head in there and let my chins groom my face and hair. That's a good bonding exercise and it's quite entertaining. Just hold still and be quiet. They'll get curious.

When approaching your pet don't reach over or behind his head or corner him. They need to see what is going on. Instinctively chinchillas are looking for predatory animals that grab them from the back or overhead. If you want to pet your chinchilla's back you need to get him used to being scratched under the chin. This is where they groom mutually, and work your way back from there. You'll be more successful that way than if you start at the back.

Don't make fast movements or talk loudly near him. Wait a couple more weeks and see if he'll become more friendly to you before you try to take him out of the cage for playtime. Chances are he is more averse to the way you're removing him from the cage than being out of the cage. Chinchillas don't like to be restrained or cuddled at first and this is something that must come with time. Some pets will not take to that at all. Of course when actually moving him you should practice proper handling technique to avoid injury or falls when he's out. For your pet I recommend making sure that kind of handling is infrequent and short as possible.

 on: February 09, 2016, 04:26:07 AM 
Started by xktee - Last post by xktee
Hi everyone, my name is Tiffany and my fiancé adopted a heathy chinchilla from his friend. Chinchilla is about 2 years old and is a bit cheeky/a-hole ish. I've had him for 3 weeks now. First week and a bit in, he was a bit shy and skittish which is understandable. Second week in, I've tried bonding with him by playing through the cage game (grabbing pellet or wood sticks and trying to get him to come close or luring him to grab it) he was not interested, he just pushes everything away. I've been sitting / talking / singing/ humming by his cage for an hour+ around 3AM when he's active, he'll come up and rest his hands on me, he'll also let me give him chin rubs/pats. I've tried taking him out for playtime in a bathroom but he doesn't seem to like it... How do I introduce out of cage playtime? I know it takes a lot of time before he can get comfortable. I've only learned two things from him, he doesn't like his butt being touched lol (he barks at me) and he will allow you to pet him if a treat is involved. And he chirps a lot when I talk to him, I don't know if that's a good or bad thing.

 on: February 08, 2016, 02:58:27 PM 
Started by Jessica T - Last post by GrayRodent
I'm very relieved. I love to see success stories!

 on: February 08, 2016, 02:56:28 PM 
Started by forchins - Last post by GrayRodent
FYI I know of more than one chinchilla that escaped by chewing the bottom trays on FN cages. You will have to fix that ASAP.

 on: February 08, 2016, 01:23:58 PM 
Started by forchins - Last post by basil92
hey i found what you said about my cage thanks i will look into all of that, she hasnt started chewing not sure if its cause sher is a baby still but she seems to love all of it. i will keep a very close eye on everything and do some reasearch about it thanks

 on: February 08, 2016, 12:46:02 PM 
Started by Jessica T - Last post by Jessica T
Hi everyone who had posted on here and was offering help.  Firstly, thank you!  It's safe to say Gus is back to normal.  We never did figure out the problem.  Though my husband and I still maintain it was an issue in his mouth.  He is back to eating on his own, and full of beans when let out of the cage.  Never been so happy to find him trying to chew things he isn't supposed to!

The pain killer (metacam) that he was on certainly helped, it enabled him to accept food, which in turn gave him energy and kept his gut healthy.  As well, Critical Care was a life saver.  My vet recommended mixing in a small amount of unsweetened apple sauce.  I did this, and he was successfully wanting to eat 1.5-2 tablespoons (dry volume) of it a day.  I'd give it to him as 1tsp (dry, but mixed with water and applesauce) at a 6 times a day.  Getting up in the night and coming home for lunch were well worth it, small sacrifices to make for a loved pet!!

I'm telling you this in case you encounter a similar problem, or ever are in a situation where syringe feeding is necessary.  Again, this kept him alive and I am thankful for knowing the few tricks I did to get him eating it.

Thanks again for the help and support, wishing you and your chinny(s) health and happiness!

 on: February 08, 2016, 10:42:34 AM 
Started by melgo66 - Last post by mb30
Timothy hay no matter what and over here in the uk we have something called "ings hay" which chinchillas love.

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