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Messages - lilchinchilla

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91
News / Re: Contractions Started!
« on: April 21, 2012, 12:47:27 AM »
So did they do an x ray on her? How many babies is she going to have? Just curious. If the vet saw her, they must have some insight as to how close she is to having them too?

I have raised chinchillas for sixteen years and going, never heard of a chinchilla having false labor before. I've heard of it in humans but never seen nor heard of it in chinchillas. I am glad she is okay though!  :) To me it sounded like her contractions had stopped due to a baby being stuck in the birth canal. That is the only time I have ever seen or ever heard of contractions stopping with chinchillas... it's a scary thing to have to deal with. Good luck with her.  ;)

92
News / Re: Contractions Started!
« on: April 20, 2012, 07:15:55 PM »
Please go to the vet. I don't know where you heard they'd had contractions for days before birthing, but usually a chinchilla has a pretty smooth and easy birth over with within a couple hours or so.

Are you sure you feel movement in there? I would just be frightened if one is stuck in the birth canal, that the others are stuck behind and will die. :(

I'm not sure where you got your info on about spotting and such, usually it just happens and it is maybe an hour - four hours(for multiple births and placentas and if a baby should be breech or stuck - it can take a little bit more time than a usual birth, and can be up to four hours, with help from you or your vet to maneuver a breech baby out or a stuck kit...).

 There's never really a lot of blood with the birthing, not quite like human birthing. Please get her looked at by a vet if you can, to ensure no babies are stuck in the birth canal.
Sometimes females stop contractions because the kits are stuck in the birth canal. They need a shot of oxytocin to help get the contractions going again. If that does not work - if the baby is too big or the birth canal too small, you may have to look at other alternatives or else you will lose both mom and her babies. Good luck and hope she is all right!

93
General Chat / Re: Female first or Male first?
« on: April 19, 2012, 05:08:48 PM »
If you are planning to breed them later on, are they pedigreed and come from good breeders? Other than that worry, usually most people go with boys first. I do think it would be a bit more difficult to introduce a male to an older female later on down the road, too.

94
News / Re: Contractions Started!
« on: April 19, 2012, 11:28:33 AM »
Does she look to be straining? Perhaps the baby is stuck or breech which would make birthing more difficult and may require vet help.
I can't tell by how you described it, but it sounds like she is straining.  I hope all is okay with her. Please update when you get a chance.

95
General Chat / Re: Help me find a 12" wheel
« on: April 16, 2012, 02:44:25 PM »
If you feel you have to get a wheel, get a chinspin wheel. Chins do not need wheels though. If you give them play time in a chin proofed room (washrooms or kitchens make the best chin proof.), each night, and they have a good sized cage, they should be fine.

The wheel you posted a photo of, is really bad. I remember one person in Wisconsin with that wheel... and their chin got his neck stuck in between the bars. He broke his neck and died. It was awful, and she ended up not using wheels after that happened.  :(

96
Canada / Re: Ontario
« on: April 16, 2012, 01:23:28 PM »
I'm in BC, but it's always nice to meet those from Ontario too!  ;) Most of my neighbors here are imports, from Ontario.  :)

97
Q & A / Re: New Chin, new owner, missing fur, photo...
« on: April 16, 2012, 01:22:06 PM »
Just use a tsp. of tinactin foot powder, for every cup of dust bath. Dust daily, and it might take up to a month before you ntoice anything. However, the fur will start to grow back in and you will notice the skin color change in that area as it starts to heal.
Fungus is usually really simple to treat as long as you start treating it right away. It definitely is fungus, though.

Good luck with her!

98
Web site Reviews / Re: AZ Chin Store
« on: April 16, 2012, 01:19:40 PM »
Oh it's not my store, Jamie. It's a store in Arizona that I often refer Americans to (I'm in Canada - you know that!  ;) ), since I only mainly sell chinchilla supplies in Canada.

It's a great store though, and they supply ocotillo wood, pecan, among other great items for chinchillas.

99
Health / Re: Broken Whiskers
« on: April 13, 2012, 10:28:33 AM »
As long as there is no fur pulling, chasing, biting or spraying, they should be fine. If you see any signs of those, you need to separate. Most cases, it is just one trying to be the boss in the cage though. I've had my own same gendered pairs over the years, and always there will be one who is more assertive and dominant in the pair over the other one. Sometimes that one will chew whiskers, sometimes they won't...

The only time I've ever seen or heard of it escalating beyond that, is when it was a pair of boys and someone brought a female into the cage or into close proximity of their cage...then when she went into heat, they were fighting. Obviously you don't have to worry about that with girls. :)

100
Health / Re: Broken Whiskers
« on: April 12, 2012, 11:23:40 PM »
Most of the time there isn't fighting involved if they chew whiskers or hump one another.

It is just one chin asserting themselves over the other. The reason one may hump the other is to get their scent on the other one to get them to accept them. It happens a lot with pairs. You'll notice the one who is more assertive is also the more outgoing of the two, while the one who has the whiskers chewed would be the more passive one of the pair.

Fighting is completely different. If they are fighting, there would be fur pulled, lots of kacking, chasing and possibly spraying involved. Chewed whiskers are the last thing a chin thinks about that is planning to fight or hurt the other cage mate. If a chin wants to hurt another chin, they just pull fur, chase them around, spray, or bite (usually around the head or neck area is where they go for when it comes to attacking another chin.). You can tell the difference between an accepted dominant/passive relationship between two chins and one that is an aggressive or fighting type of relationship quite easily.


101
Q & A / Re: New baby help
« on: April 12, 2012, 02:48:48 PM »
Is she at least eating hay? Sometimes chinchillas get stressed with the transition to a new home and refuse to eat their pellets or drink water the first day or two. They always eat their hay though...  If she isn't too young, it could just be her being a little stressed out. How long has she gone without water?

She may nibble on hay only, which is what most newcomers will do when they get to their new home. Usually a day or two passes and they start eating their pellets once again when they settle in.

102
Web site Reviews / AZ Chin Store
« on: April 11, 2012, 04:37:53 PM »
http://chinstore.azchins.com/

I had to post this great source of chinchilla supplies in Arizona.  :::grins::

103
Health / Re: Broken Whiskers
« on: April 11, 2012, 04:31:49 PM »
Chins will groom or chew off the whiskers on their cage mates. One reason why, is that sometimes if you notice one cage mate is more dominant than the other. Usually it is the dominant one chewing the more passive chinchilla's whiskers. Just like how sometimes one chin (more dominant one) will hump a passive chinchilla cage mate.

It's their way of asserting dominance in the cage (letting the other one know who is boss). You may notice the same chinchilla steals the more passive cage mate's treat sometimes too.  ;)

104
Health / Re: dried fruit
« on: April 11, 2012, 03:06:59 PM »
Just make sure to give them a tiny piece if you want to give a treat.  ;) Once a week or a teeny tiny piece once a day, is okay.

 If you give too much of treats or too often, you can have issues with their tummies like diarrhea or constipation among other things. I wouldn't recommend citrus fruits or melons. Treats that people have given that are okay in moderation, are raisins, dried apple or dried bananas as mentioned before. :)

 Break or cut it up into smaller pieces. While our tummies do fine with treats, our tummies are also much bigger than a chinchillas. So what may seem a tiny amount of sugar in a treat to us and our digestive tracts, can be too much for them with their little digestive tracts. It is why moderation is so important when it comes to treats.

105
Health / Re: Chinchilla Just Had A Seizure! Please Help
« on: April 11, 2012, 02:59:25 PM »
It can be thiamine deficiency, calcium deficiency, or it could even have to do with low blood sugar levels. Was your chinchilla active or out playing a lot prior to the episode?

Most commonly it has to do with low blood sugar levels in most chinchillas which usually occurs right after they are active (not all chins have this problem when they are out to play, but some do.). Giving a treat with some sugar content prior to play time can sometimes offset this from occurring in chinchillas who are prone to that.

I know of one person who has a chin with thiamine deficiency and they were diagnosed by a blood test done by their vet. Calcium deficiency usually can be noticed quite easily by just looking at their teeth. Pale yellow or white teeth tend to signify calcium deficiency.

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