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Messages - GrayRodent

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 175
1
Q & A / Re: Aggressive young chinchilla – any advice?
« on: June 08, 2017, 03:01:26 PM »
Chinchillas do get hormonal. Also not all chins are compatible with each other. Also I have a chin that is very sexual compared to the other and I think he'll always be that way. If a chinchilla is biting the other they are not compatible.
However chinchillas do hump each other when they are together. It is normal behavior and they do this to establish a pecking order (dominance mounting) and it is normal for females and males. Biting is not normal and cannot be tolerated. I recommend you plan to have two cage setups or a split cage setup.

2
Q & A / Re: Time outside of cage?
« on: June 08, 2017, 02:57:05 PM »
The best way to let them out is to chinchilla-proof a room. It's easy to do that in a bathroom. Another thing is to train your chinchilla to stay where you are. I do this by sitting on a chair and holding him and letting him crawl on me. Do expect your pet will get away from you. You just have to go after him. But before all of this I strongly recommend interacting with your pet through and in the cage and gaining a bond with him. Do not take your chinchilla outside to play this is very dangerous and predators such as hawks or dogs are a severe threat. And if you lose your chin and can't get him back he probably won't survive. Outdoor temp is also a high concern.
Chinchillas do not need to be exercised regularly out of their cage they are not like dogs.

3
General Chat / Re: Need bonding advice please!
« on: April 22, 2017, 07:32:50 AM »
Just put the cages next to each other for 8 weeks and wait. Then try to introduce them. It's a method that is known to work and recommended by expert breeders. No method is guaranteed and care must be taken to assess success when you put them into the same cage after that waiting period.
Bonding in pairs is not necessarily permanent either. The new dynamic introduced by the other animals in the group can change things. It may be necessary to permanently separate them.

4
General Chat / Re: Need bonding advice please!
« on: April 21, 2017, 08:17:56 PM »
My advice is wait 2-3 weeks. Have chins in same room but not in same enclosure and then try again. Put cages side by side 3 inches apart. Typically you want to have a minimum 8 week waiting period. Also it is advised to quarantine 3-4 weeks before putting them into the same room if possible.

The neutral area bonding method will not work for all chins. Also, and unfortunately, not all chins are compatible with each other but you won't know anything until the waiting period is over and they can get used to each other from a short distance.

5
Health / Re: !HELP! Female Chinchilla Vaginal Discharge
« on: April 20, 2017, 09:11:41 PM »
I'm sorry you're going through that. If there is still discharge you might have an infection. I wish I could offer more advice but the best thing you can do is get it examined by a vet and probably get a culture done on it. If it's an infection it probably needs antibiotics. Infections there can be quite dangerous. If the infection is in the uterus itself it is life threatening and you should consider treatment carefully.
If it's just a one time thing I wouldn't be extremely concerned but the amount you're talking about does seem excessive.
Removing her from the others is a judgment call. I'm not aware of it being contagious but if her health deteriorates you want to separate quickly though because the risk of contracting something infectious is greatly increased and can threaten the others. Weigh your chins regularly.

6
Q & A / Re: Just looking for a little insight
« on: April 06, 2017, 06:38:47 PM »
Glad to oblige. That's why we're here.

Chinchillas can have widely different personalities just like cats or dogs. Considering they have not been socialized properly they may never get super friendly but you if you keep working with them they should tame down quite a bit.

I think the diets on your list are not good. You are better off feeding loose hay only than feeding those diets. I'm guessing you're in Europe where your options are more limited. Do you have access to Oxbow or Mazuri feed products there? There may be better options for you.
I recommend feeding in the meantime half in half alfalfa and timothy hay. Once you add pellets back into the diet just feed timothy hay as your loose hay.

Pelleted diets that come in mixtures are not good for chinchillas. Chinchillas will pick out the junk and leave the good parts behind, if there are any good parts left. I strongly suspect this reduces their life expectancy by less than half.

It is very unusual for chinchillas to have mites or fleas and if you are actually seeing something crawling out of their fur consider that to be highly abnormal. However the urine in the cage bedding can attract gnats and flying insects but considering the diet they were on they may not be particularly healthy. The vet should be able to tell you more.

7
Q & A / Re: Just looking for a little insight
« on: April 04, 2017, 09:31:16 PM »
LOL. What you describe is so typical of chinchillas. Especially chins that are not very well socialized. And obviously not handled properly.

Regarding behavior:
I don't think holding them by the base of the tail without foot support causes them pain of any kind. However I think by not supporting their feet or having a place for them to grip I think it can cause them stress in most contexts. Which isn't the same as pain but that is going to seriously work against you as you try to straighten them out. It's made them averse to being picked up and handled. Which is one reason why they were screaming bloody murder when you grabbed them. That kind of response is not typical. Expect this to be a process over weeks and months but I don't think it's irresolvable. And I do agree you don't want to keep having the same bad experience each time they're out if you can avoid that. You want to establish a pattern of experience. The occasional mishap won't matter too much if you can be consistent. And unfortunately you can expect your chins will get away from you numerous times as you as you start working with them. And beleive me they are nefarious little creatures that can innovate on the fly!

However, with that being said, it's typical for chins to hide in dark places and chew baseboards, power cables (which sadly I hear of fatalities quite often from this), and stuff they shouldn't have access to. It's just not a good idea to let them roam around except in a place that's prepared for them. You can certianly transport them using a travel cage if you think that can help you.

I wouldn't start doing that anytime soon though. I think your chins need to stay in thier cage for a few weeks and just get used to you and get used to interaction through the door and through the bars of the cage. That's going to give them time to adjust to their new surroundings and owner and it will give you time to observe them and figure them out. And that's 2/3 of the battle right there, observing and learning from them. And the other 1/3 is them learning from you.

Regarding wood:
There are people all over the spectrum when it comes to saying what's safe and what's not. But for me I just go by what the old school agricultural breeders have used for years without problems yet not go off the deep end with restrictions. I would stay away from particle board or press board, board that has varnish or coatings on it, or anything that is not some kind of white pine, aspen, or similar material. If it smells stronger than white pine boards I'd say stay away from it. If it's denser it's probably not safe. If you have a specific wood in question I can tell you whether or not others have used it safely but white pine is very common. You can very easily make shelving and ledges for your cage. If you have any questions just ask.

Bedding is ususually labelled. If it says kiln dried white pine or aspen you're good. It doesn't have to be organic or anything crazy like that. Avoid paper or artificial absorbent beddings. These are bad news and are proven to be unsafe.

Regarding Health:
I wouldn't be to concerned about your chinchilla's health unless you see loose or runny droppings, lethargy (I know that's hard to describe when you don't know what normal behaviour looks like), uncoordinated walking, discharge from the eyes or nose, things like that. You can certainly take them to the vet for an exam if you'd like. They are going to be stressed no matter what but it's your call.

I can also assure you both of them can jump higher than 50cm if they really wanted to.

The droppings you describe (and photographed) look typical to me as well. Dry and brown is good. Wet and green is not. But as far as diet might I ask what you are feeding? There are some really good diets out that that are popular and there are a larger number of very poor diets should be avoided.

Hope this helps.

8
General Chat / Re: Lump on Doodle's side
« on: April 04, 2017, 08:48:12 PM »
Welcome back the forum. Long time no see.
I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless you notice changes in size or baldness where your pet is trying to get at it. The next time you go to vet just ask about it. But see if you can't find another one right across from it. Chinchillas, even male chinchillas, can still have nipples and other chin owners have mentioned them thinking there were abnormalities

My Kulu has a birthmark on his maleness too. Moles I'm not to familiar with. Of the chins I know of that have had tumors it is accompanied by other more serious symptoms. But as I always say, if in doubt, see a vet. The only way to know with any degree of certainty to get a biopsy. Unless it's a nipple. Then it would certainly be normal.

God bless.

9
General Chat / Re: Help Determining Colors?
« on: March 30, 2017, 08:49:20 AM »
I think you have a mix of genes going on there. A reputable breeder is going to keep track of what they are and where they come from and will limit the combinations to generally accepted conventions. It looks like you have a bit of a muddy mess there so you're not going to know for sure.
Typically the darker belly and fur is going to be caused by the ebony gene. The brownish is probably caused by beige plus ebony. The standard color is grey with black on top and a white belly. I'm guessing your'e dealing with standard or violet, which is a dull grey color that doesn't express the dark veiling on the back. Violet tends cause gray ears as well.

10
Q & A / Re: vocals
« on: March 30, 2017, 08:44:14 AM »
Sounds like fun. Chinchillas can be different so just observe the context of the noise and that will help you understand it better.

11
North East USA / Re: rehoming 2 chinchillas-cincinnati, IN, KY area
« on: March 29, 2017, 02:32:22 PM »
Sorry about that. We have several pages. This is our active group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheChinchillaClub/

12
Q & A / Re: vocals
« on: March 29, 2017, 02:24:50 PM »
Can't always tell with chinchillas. They are capable of making a wide range of sounds and with pets they are going to pick up habits from other chins and even human interaction. The best thing to do is observe what your chin is doing at the time of the sound and see what it's associating with its sounds.

13
General Chat / Re: Help Determining Colors?
« on: March 29, 2017, 02:23:05 PM »
Can you describe the colors on the belly as well as top?

Chris

14
Cages / Re: new ledges!
« on: March 24, 2017, 08:10:52 PM »
Get stud bolts and wingnuts to go over them. To install the bolts you can put two wingnuts going opposite directions and lock them together then twist.

15
North East USA / Re: rehoming 2 chinchillas-cincinnati, IN, KY area
« on: March 24, 2017, 01:54:44 PM »
Very sorry to hear that. I'm giving you permission to post this on our chinchilla facebook page if you'd like as well. Just mention permission granted by Chris.

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