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16

Q & A / Re: advice

« on: April 27, 2013, 04:36:07 PM »

   The extra fiber in hay is important, as a matter of fact many exotic pet vets will put your chin on strictly water and hay when they are sick. 
But ... the pellets are just fine also ... IF they are high quality and contain all that a chin needs ... many/most do not.  Mazuri or Oxbow are two great ones for providing a chin what they need in their pellets.  Make sure there are no added treats mixed in with the pellets.  If your chin's pellets contain anything other than pellets, it is usually because the pellets are not as good a quality as they should be.  Treats are treats and should be treated as such.  If your chin gets treats mixed in with his pellets ... he is just like a little kid ... they like to eat the treats and leave the stuff that is good for them.  The "treats" I am referring to are usually a different color and shape than the original green pellets.  Never buy the pellets that are in an open container at the pet store ... these are exposed to anything and everything you can imagine.  Do not buy chinchilla food that is in a package that exposes the pellets to the light constantly. 

  What brand chinchilla food are you using?

Now, let us get back to the hay.  When you say "fresh" hay, do you mean fresh out of the field (still containing it's natural moisture) or fresh as in recently purchased dried hay?   Also keep in mind there are many different types of hay.  The main hays provided for chinchillas are Timothy, Alfalfa and meadow hay.  Which ever one you can get on a regular basis and that is the freshest is the best.   Timothy hay is a normal staple for chins.  Meadow hay is one that is good also, but is usually used when Timothy or Alfalfa is not readily available.  Alfalfa hay is the richest and is usually used for the females when they are in breeding, while pregnant and while nursing.  As a personal preference, I use Alfalfa also during the first 6 months of a chin's life ... this is when he/she grows and develops the most.  I have grown hay in containers in the house and given my chins an occasional treat of freshly grown hay, but they need the dried hay also.

Bad hay ... hay that has mold or mildew is worse than no hay at all.  Always smell of the hay before you give it to your chin.  If it has a musty or sour smell to it ... get rid of it and thoroughly clean the container and anything (cages, toys, etc) that may have been exposed to it.  If you are not sure ... when in doubt throw it out!

My chins have access to their pellets at all times.  I try to keep fresh hay available at all times also.  If you give your chins hay, make sure it is in a container and not left on a shelf or the floor of the cage.  I use empty toilet paper rolls to stuff hay in ... or a small empty cereal box or a separate bowl other than where their pellets are or a piece of PVC pipe or a wire holder.  Always make sure to clean out and dispose of any hay that is left over from the day or night before.  The reason for this is that the chins urinate and poop almost everywhere ... it can fall down between the wires or shelves and land on the hay ... this is one of the first steps to cause a good hay to go bad.  The moisture can cause mildew and can set up the perfect growing place for germs that can sicken and even kill your chinchilla.

Keeping a chin's teeth worn down to the proper size is very important.  They do this by chewing their food, their hay, wooden toys and the use of a pumas
lava stone.  They should have access to all of these on a constant basis.  When we think of tooth problems, we think of going to the dentist ... a matter of discomfort to humans ... but, if a chin's teeth grow to long, or grow into the jaw or brain a tooth problem can be extremely painful and even kill a chin ... in a very slow and painful way.  If you notice any drooling or notice he is eating only on one side of his mouth, he probably has a serious problem and needs to see a qualified vet a.s.a.p.  Not a week from now, but as soon as you see the problem.  It could be a bone spur, a cracked tooth, a chip off of a tooth or something as simple as a piece of hay stuck between two teeth, but if he is not seen to find out and fix the problem, the situation can get very bad very quickly.

Sorry about being so long-winded, but I hope this helps and has answered some of you questions.

   Jo Ann

17

Health / Re: Are my chinchillas getting too hot?

« on: October 03, 2012, 07:25:55 AM »

  
Some of the signs your chin is in trouble from to warm a temperature or exhaustion:

1.  Pink or redish ears or veins more obvious in the ears than normally ... this is often hard to see in chinchillas that have dark ears like the black velvets and standard grays.  We as humans sweat to help cool our body ... chinchillas do NOT sweat, they cool their body through their ears and a little through their feet.  Their thick fur helps keep their body heat in and the outside cold out.  The temperatures a chin can withstand are generally between 45 F and 74 F ... these are the extreams.  Their comfort zone is usually between 65 F and 70 F.
2.  Panting is a sign of exhaustion and/or stress.  Panting in a chin is usually seen after/while being very active OR in a pregnant female chinchilla in labor while delivering her kits.
3.  Lethargic ... Not being playful, sitting unusually still for a long period or time and or dull eyes ... this is a sign your chin could be over heated, but is also often a sign of injury or illness.  Never ignore the sign of lethargy in a chinchilla.
4.  When you are holding the chin, you can over heat it by transferring your body heat to the chin by holding it to long and or in a manner where most of it's body is covered by your hands and or body.  Your body heat is transferred to the chins fur, and into the chinchilla itself.
5.  It's ears and feet should never feel warm to your touch.  Your face and/or neck can often judge temperature better than even your hands.
6.  A chinchilla that is overheated or sick will often become irritable and not want to be handled.  Never ignore this.

There are several ways to help cool your chinchilla.  Some are safer than others ...

1. We keep our home temperature at 67 to 68 F year round ... rough on the summer billing, but helps greatly on the winter bills.
2.  Buy two chin-chillers, keep both in the refrigerator.  Use one at a time, swapping them out as needed.
3.  You mentioned a high humidity.  Get a dehumidifier, please.  High Humidity greatly affects a chinchilla in a bad way.  A good way to gauge the proper comfortable temperature for a chinchilla is to add the humidity number to the temperature number ... IF they = 150 or more, it is to warm for your chin, especially one that is out playing.  Example:  Room Temperature is 74 F and room Humidity is 85%.  74 + 85 = 159 This is over the acceptable 149 total.   
4.  Buy a few mason jars.  Fill them with ice cubes and keep them in the freezer ... Do NOT fill with water, then freeze, they can break that way ... Place metal lids on the jars filled with ice cubes and place the jar in the cage.  Do not use plastic jars.  When your little one is out playing ... keep a jar of ice cubes out in a metal shallow cooking sheet pan or metal cake pan, placed in a convenient place on the floor for your chin.  He/she will go stand close to it to get use of the cool air around it AND can lick the cold droplets of condensed water off of the outside of the jar.
5.  Using water to cool a chin is acceptable, but only in an emergency.  The chin must be thoroughly dried with a towel and paper towels a.s.a.p.  A chinchilla can become chilled if left wet ... a chilled chin can often be in as much danger as one that is to hot.
6.  We as humans sweat/perspire.  When the breeze from a fan come in contact with the water on our bodies, it evaporates the water cooling the body.  Chinchillas can not sweat or perspire, a fan does not help them and can hurt them.  Always keep your chin away from fans and air ducts.
7.   Never place or house your chin in an enclosed area such as an aquarium.  There will be a heat build up from the chinchilla's own body heat, not to mention the fumes from the urine and poop.  Chinchillas must have fresh air.  No air can properly circulate naturally in a small enclosed area.  A chinchilla needs to be in a cage that is enclosed with wire that can allow the normal flow of air in in the room in and out of the cage naturally.
8.  Never place a chin's cage where the direct sun beams can shine on the cage or the chinchilla.  A chin's cage should always be placed in an area OUT of direct sunlight.  The sun beams shining through a glass window will heat anything it shines on.  Even a few degrees can make a huge difference for a chinchilla.
9. When traveling with a chinchilla, never, ever leave it in an enclosed car while you run in the store to get something or to get a bite to eat.  The inside temperature of a car on a sunny day that it is 70 F can soar to 90+ F in just a few minutes.  You do not want to return to find a dead chin.  Plan on going through drive thous to get something to eat.
10.  When transporting a chinchilla, do NOT place the cage on the floorboard of the vehicle. Place it in an area that is off of the floor and where no sunbeams will hit it during the trip.  The equipment that runs the car often heats the floor of the car.  The sunbeams coming through the window will over heat the chin. 

Hope this helps!

Jo Ann

   

18

Q & A / Re: New baby help

« on: May 15, 2012, 04:34:06 AM »

   Congratulations on your new kit! 
   By the way, are both kits the same sex?   

What color is Pepper?

What name have you given to your little white mosaic?

Post pictures, please!   

   Jo Ann

19

Health / Re: Small Chin

« on: May 13, 2012, 09:49:43 AM »

   What were the colors of the chins in the pet store? 
What color/colors are the parents of your little chin?
Remember, mutations (any color other than a standard gray) is very often smaller than the original standard gray chinchillas, due to the genetics involved.  Some mutations tend to be smaller than other mutations, as a general rule, especially those that are produced from breeding two mutations to each other.  A pure standard gray  (one with only standard gray in it's family history) that is healthy is usually larger than a standard gray that has some mutation parents or grandparents in it's family background.  There should be a standard (pure standard, if possible) bred back into the mutation line every 2ND or 3rd generation to keep the basic genes strong and healthy.
There are so very many things that can effect the growth and size of a chinchilla!   
Even two kits born to the same parents (within the same litter or in different litters) can be different due to the genetics passed on from the parents with each kit in the litter. 
The time the kits are consieved in the same litter can also make a difference.
The female has two uterus ... if she is carrying 1 kit in one and 2 kits in the other, the one kit being developed by itself is probably getting more nutrition than the two kits developing in the other uterus.
Unknown genetics that can skip a generation or two can effect the kit's development.
Knowing as much of the background of a chinchilla as possible and proper note keeping is essential to produce the best you can produce ... then when you think you have it down pat ... something will pop in and surprise you!  LOL
Let us know what information the breeder has for you.  (IE. size and color of parents and all grandparents, etc)

   Jo Ann

20

General Breeder Chat / Re: Poor Baby :(

« on: May 13, 2012, 09:24:55 AM »

   Things like this are so sad when they happen and we want/need to know why, if possible.   1. So we can avoid it again, if possible and 2. So we can accept and learn from the cause.
   How old is the female that delivered the still born kit?   
How much did she weigh when she got pregnant? 
How much did the kit weigh at birth? 
What color was the momma chin? 
What color was the daddy chin? 
How old is the daddy chin? 
How much does the daddy chin weigh?
Just a few questions whos answers may give some insite to the problem causing the still birth.   

   Jo Ann

21

Q & A / Re: Non stop barking, when lights are off?

« on: May 13, 2012, 09:15:41 AM »

   Chinchillas tend to protect their family (you are a part of their family) and will warn them (you) of danger ... this is what they are doing for you ... warning you of the unknown noises they hear.      To a chinchilla, any new and unknown sounds make them very uneasy and sometimes even afraid.  It might be worth a restless night to stay in the room with them, move them closer to you, turn on some very soft music and assure them, that everything is OK.  Chinchillas are pretty smart ... they will soon learn what sounds are 'normal' for their new home and which ones that are not normal.
 
    We have to remember, chinchillas are like children, they look to you for comfort and reassurance, just like a child would do ... in return, once they become accustom to the new sounds, then any unusual sound they may hear in the future, they will let you know that something is going on that normally does not. 

   I remember several years ago of a member's chin alerting them when a person was trying to break into the house and another time of a chin alerting the family of a fire.

   Never underestimate the chinchilla!   

   Jo Ann

22

Health / Re: Broken Tail (help)

« on: April 27, 2012, 12:47:51 PM »

   Keep an eye on the tail and make sure it stays a normal temperature and does not swell.  Swelling is a sign of infection ... something chinchillas do not handle well.  If it has to be amputated, it's much better than having to loose him.  We'll keep our fingers crossed it heals properly!   

I would give him some yogurt half way in between the doses of antibiotics (at least 2 hours apart).  This helps to keep his system going properly.  Yogurt is a milk product and can not be given at the same time as his meds or they will cancel out each other.

Watch his poos and make sure they do not change in size or number.  If the number of poos becomes less or if they become smaller or dryer, please let your vet know immediately.  This is usually a sign they are about to get stopped up.   Believe it or not, a constipated chinchilla can be worse off than a sick chinchilla.  Their digestive system can not be allowed to shut down.

Keep us posted on Puff's progress!

   Jo Ann

23

Q & A / Re: Owner preferences?

« on: April 27, 2012, 12:36:43 PM »

   Chinchillas are much like humans (but better) in the way they feel towards different people ... but ... smells play a huge part in how one may react differently to the same treatment.

I avoid perfume or colognes when around my chins.  These can be harmful to them.   

Always wash your hands and around your mouth before you handle or pet your chin.  Lingering food odors can lead a little one to be curious enough to try a bite to see if this new smell tastes good or not.

Sometimes, chinchillas need their own space (much like humans) and you just have to give it to them ... they will do the same for you.   

Now, if you are not properly supporting his legs completely at all times, this might be your problem when it comes to him allowning you to hold him.  It is obvious he wants you to hold him, or he would not come to you and put his paw in your hand, but he must feel safe to let you hold him.   If the chins legs are not properly supported, he thinks he is going to fall and will not feel safe with you. 

I have one chin that is jealous of my husband and me.  Hubby can not hug or kiss me in front of her, or she will spray me everytime I pass the cage for the next couple of days.  She will allow only him to handle her.    We have another that will allow only me to touch him. 

Chinchillas definitely have a mind of their own and moods to match!     So, don't worry, it is all normal.

   Jo Ann

24

Q & A / Re: Introducing baby to dust baths

« on: April 27, 2012, 12:20:43 PM »

   Sorry, but I strongly disagree.   To each his own, but I think caution and safety first is the number one priority.

With mine, Momma chin and her kits are allowed to take their first dust bath when the kits are 10 days old and not before.  Momma will teach her little ones how to do it properly.

If there is any irritation or raw areas on my momma or her little ones, they must all wait till the one is healed, if they are all going to be in the same cage together.

Chins will often urinate in the dustbath dust, this and any other moisture in the dust bath dust will support growth of germs that might get into the exposed raw skin can set up an infection ... a problem you really do not want to have with a mom and her new litter.

Please, check with your vet ... I have the feeling he/she will tell you not to allow the dust baths until day 10 if they are familiar with chinchillas and their care.

   Jo Ann

25

Guestbook / Re: I need advice

« on: April 27, 2012, 12:09:19 PM »

   Each of us has to deal with the death of a little one in their own way and own time ... there is nothing set in stone to cover this.   

If you want to get a chin soon, I would first clean the cage thoroughly (not because of what might have been in your home, but what your little one brought into your home from somewhere else).  Dispose of all food and anything that can not be sterilized.

If you have any other pets, do not allow them in the Chin's room, especially if they are allowed both inside and outside of the house.  Keep a bottle of instant sanitizer near the cage and insist those handling the chin clean their hands first.

I strongly suggest getting a chin (preferably 2 at the same time), from a reputable breeder rather than a pet store.  Chinchillas in pet stores are usually mishandled more than they are handled properly.  Chinchillas are very fragile in many ways.

   Nothing will ever take the place of your first one, or any number of them in between, each chinchilla has a way of making it's own special place in your heart that no one or no thing can ever fill it's place there.

Sometimes you just have to visit a breeder and their chins a few times ... when you see one you just can't leave without, then it is time to bring a new little one or two home with you.

Hope this helps a little.

Big Chinnie Hug!
Jo Ann

26

Health / Re: HELP! BABY CHINCHILLA DYING!

« on: April 27, 2012, 11:49:45 AM »

   Ones that are conceived at a different time rarely have a chance to make it and/or if the mom does not have enough milk to support all the kits, she will abandon the smallest/weakest one, so that the others may survive on what she has.  Also, those conceived at a different time are usually not fully developed yet.  It is called superfoetation, below is a picture of a male and female kit, born in the same litter.  (Just click on the picture to enlarge it.) The female kit only weighed 18 grams, the male weighed 54 grams.  I have helped a few through the rough part ... some survived, some did not.  This is the down side of breeding.  
    If you can find some raspberry leaves, this will help her milk come in better ... if that is the problem.  A vitamin C tablet will help with extra vitamins and Alfalfa hay is richer in nutrients than the Timothy hay.  I usually keep my females on it when in breeding and while they nurse.  Also Nutri-Cal is good to boost her needs for extra calories and nutrients at this time.  
    Goat's milk is the best if you want to attempt to feed the little kit.  Goat's milk mixed 1/2 and1/2 with warm water and fed with a glass eye dropper works best for me and my little ones.  Wrap the kit in a clean wash cloth like a papoose and hold at a 45 to 50 degree angle.   Have a damp cloth ready to clean it's face and chin constantly ... if the formula dries, it will take fur and all off to clean it.  Q-Tips are great to help control the drips.  Only put one drop on the kit's lips at a time ... do not put the dropper inside the mouth, event rhough they are tiny, their suckling ability will astound you.  They can suck the dropper straight through to the throat in a split second.  He will need to be feed about every 2 hours for the first two days.  (I've napped in a chair for days in my chin room many a time.  This is all part of being a breeder.)  
Please keep us posted on the new chin family's progress.

   Jo Ann

27

Health / Re: Buddy's not himself

« on: April 26, 2012, 05:04:53 PM »

Sorry I have not been very active on the forum lately ... having some medical problems, but I was ask to see if I could add a little to what others may be saying.  So far, I see some very good advice being offered by others.  Good going!  

Glad to see the vet is working with you, but personally, I would add a few things to what you are doing.  
I'll list them all here, in addition to what you are already doing so there will be a complete list in one place.

1. When a chin's system slows down or stops that always means there can be major problems very quickly, something that can not be ignored. Constipation for humans and most other animals is usually a bad discomfort ... for a chinchilla it is usually one of the early signs of illness or injury and must be dealt with as quickly as possible.  When a chinchillas' gut stops, so does the rest of his system ... rather rapidly ... faster than any other animal I have come in contact with over my many years. (I'm a senior citizen now   )
2. If he is on antibiotics or has been on antibiotics the critical care and the yogurt are a must!
Do keep in mind the critical care must be refrigerated at all times.
If for some reason the critical care has not been kept refrigerated, please check out a health food store and get some acidophiles ... I buy the ones that are in the capsules.  Once the bottle of assodiplous is opened it to MUST be kept refrigerated.   I mix 1 capsule with each 1/4 cup of critical care and keep it refrigerated.   You can make it into little balls, about the size of a raisin and hand feed them to him ... do keep them refrigerated in an air tight glass container!
3. The liquid you are mixing with the critical care is adding fluids for him and so is the yogurt ... this is a good thing.
4. Yogurt with fruit is good and they seem to accept it much more readily ... mine like the strawberries & the blue berries that are mixed with the yogurt.  I use the individual serving size Activia and Yoplait sells.  Yogurt is often an acquired taste ... they may refuse it at first and it may take frequent persistence on your part to get them to eat it.  But, there are chins that will never accept it.  If your little one runs away, turns around and around while trying it's best to wipe off the yogurt you got on his lips ... more than likely he will never accept it.  Do not for it under these circumstances.
5.VERY IMPORTANT: Offer him yogurt (or critical care) 1/2 way between the doses of antibiotics.[/b]  Do NOT give antibiotics and yogurt or critical care at the same time or within 2 hours of each other!  Yogurt is a milk product and will cancel out the good the antibiotics will do for him.  The antibiotics kill all the micro creatures in the chinchilla's system ... the bad and the good.  The good ones are called flora and they help your chin to properly digest it's food. The yogurt and the critical care replace them ... but the meds and the flora replacement, both, must have time to do their job to make your chin healthy again.
6. Peylite is good, but must be kept refrigerated between refills, but is only good for 24 hours after it is opened.  I use the one Gerber baby foods puts out.  They come in individual serving size usually in a 4 or 6 pack ... this cuts way back on waste and cost.  I use the apple flavored one ... they seem to love it!   Caution: When it is time to get him back on regular water, it may take about a week of adding just enough to flavor the water and use less and less each day to wean him off of the apple flavored liquid.  
7. When a chin is sick, it is often best to stick to the basics and give hay only and not the regular pellets of food.  He needs the extra nutrients and fiber the hay has to offer him.
8. With the amount and time he has been stopped up, I personally, would go one step futher.  
There is one time and one time only I will recommend giving a chinchilla a nut.  
This is that time ... one unsalted almond ... wait 2 to 3 hours and give him a second one ... this should start his bowels moving properly.
9. Last, but definately not least, I am NOT a vet, but have been raising chinchillas for over a decade and have had 200+ chinchilla at one time on many occasions.  What I offer you is my experience and what I have done and will continue to do with my own chinchillas, because this is what has worked for me.

Above all, if you trust your vet and his/her knowledge of caring for chinchillas, follow the instructions your vet gives you and use information offered you by others only as long as you feel comfortable doing so.

Possible reasons a chin gets stopped up:
1.  Illness
2.  Injury
3.  Surgery
4.  Medications
5.  Pain
6.  Food he should never be given such as:
   a.  Never, ever, ever give your chin meat or meat byproducts (such as a rawhide bone made for dogs) ... there systems can not digest these and will cause the system to stop up and will usually, very slowly and painfully kill your chin.
   b.  Veggies that cause gas ... such as broccoli, beans, melons (Gas for a chinchilla and and often does, cause a slow painful death.)
   c.  Fruits grown with a pit (peaches)
   d.  Watery fruits and veggies (watermelon, lettuce, celery, etc.) These will cause diarrhea ... which is just as bad as being constipated.
   e.  Fruit and veggies that have acid or citrus
   f.  Nuts are a BIG no-no! (except on very rare occasions)  A chin that is fed nuts on a regular basis will usually end up with a fatty liver.  Chinchillas' systems are not made to digest the oils in nuts, this is what gives them a fatty liver, which can complicate other problems and even cause death.
   g.  Processed foods contain dies, preservatives and additives never meant for a chinchilla ... do not feed them human foods on a regular basis.
   h.  Always know where the fruit and branches for your chin's pleasure come from ... they can NOT come from a tree or bush that has been sprayed with chemicals!

Well, the end of this 'lecture' ... hope it helps you and any other person in the future with their precious little fur ball.

   Jo Ann

P.S. When giving water or any liquid with a syringe ... I strongly suggest a glass eye dropper or a plastic syringe used when giving an injection (without the needle, of course) and give the liquid one drop at a time on the lips of the chin ... not inside the mouth ... they have been known to suck so hard and quick unexpectedly, that they manage to suck the feeder all the way into the mouth, puncturing the throat.  I suggest using a hand towel and wrap it like a papoose ... very snugly securing the front paws ... hold it at a 45 to 50 degree angle and give it the liquid slowly.

28

News / Re: Virtual Egg Hunt - April 1

« on: April 07, 2012, 07:13:42 AM »

   FIRST I will NOT give any hints to anyone ... you all get to have the same fun I've had!   

I got all of them in the members area, then got stumped on the 3 I lack on the main Chinchilla Club site. 
It took hints (check above and see how you get those) to find 2 of the last 3 ...
I am 1  away from finding all 30 and I will    remain calm     I will stay cool     I will not act like a little kid and pitch a temper tantrum     I will continue my search    and when I give up and say  Oh well .. I will look just one more place and feel like an idiot when I finally find the last one.        

Fun and Games Everyone!
 
Jo Ann

29

Health / Re: Pregnant Chin Found Blood! (Maybe Urethral Infections?) Pics

« on: April 06, 2012, 11:31:56 AM »

I've just seen your post for the first time. 
Have you taken her to the vet yet? 
If so, what did he say? 
If not, I strongly suggest getting her there a.s.a.p., please.
I would also strongly suggest never leaving her with that person again ... that is if she survives this time.

   Jo Ann

30

Q & A / Re: Strange odor comming from younest chin's water bottle.

« on: April 06, 2012, 10:59:53 AM »

    I have several chins that do this also. 

   One I observed, stuffed his little mouth with food, so much so, he decided to do the mouth wash thing ...  He got a mouth full of water and the debris from the food went up and into the bottle when he spued it out, back into the tube.  YUCK!

   Like Jamie, I have a couple that decide to try to hide extra pellets inside the sipper tube also.

    Then I have this one little chin that was born with only 2 teeth and he can not chew his food properly.  He will stick a pellet into the tube, let it get wet, then suck it out.  Smart chin!   


   Jo Ann