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Messages - GrayRodent

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 183
61
Q & A / Re: Just looking for a little insight
« on: February 16, 2018, 10:41:24 PM »
I'm glad things are going better for you. I'm glad you've found a comparable food source.
Chinchillas are typically not cuddly animals but that can change with time and handling though each animal will be different.

Now that your pets can be handled without thinking they are being threatened I recommend actually taking them out of the cage, holding them against your chest for 10-15 seconds, then putting them back. Do this 2-3 times a day.

They'll fight you but they should not bite you. Remember when handling chinchillas try to allow them to stand on one of your hands and allow them to face your shoulder. Their natural tendency is to run up your arm. With the other hand hold firmly at the base of the tail. You can suspend the whole chinchilla from there if need to get a better grip. Make sure to stay at the very base and don't go up on the tail. Do not allow a chinchilla to flail around as it can cause itself grave injury. It's either a good hold or do not remove from the cage. Handle the chinchilla low towards the floor. Expect to have accidents because it's a learning experience for the both of you. Minimize the danger of falling and escaping ahead of time.

One thing that helped me with a really wild chinchilla was to sit in a shower stall for about 10 minutes and let the chinchilla run around and crawl on me. I would be mostly still. I did this every day and saw significant improvement, although the animal was too wild to ever make a tame pet. My other two chins didn't need that that extreme.

The theory is to establish a routine of safe handling. If they struggle and fight to get away just ignore it and hold on. Worst case is you get bit. If you have the base of the tail you can reposition your other hand to control the head from below. If you get bit do not let go. This can cause a fall and reinforce the behavior, although it is unusual behavior for most pets.

Take them out for a few seconds, then put them back in. That will not stress them too badly. Eventually the chinchilla will stop struggling and expect to be handled this way but you'll see gradual change over days and weeks. It is a proven effective method. My chins started out about 10-20 seconds at a time. Basically I held them, and put them back into the cage when they took a break from struggling. (Usually it's only after a few seconds) so they know that struggling is not going to free them. Of course mix this interaction with non-stressful interactions throughout the week.

Now my pets will actually jump onto my hand at times, especially after dust baths because that is part of their routine. They can be out over 5-10 minutes now and they don't care. It is only because they are actually handled on a regular basis.

62
Cages / Re: Pictures of your cage
« on: January 30, 2018, 10:08:09 PM »
That's a very nice cage setup. Thanks for sharing.

63
Health / Re: After teeth surgery, he refuses to eat
« on: January 30, 2018, 08:28:24 AM »
I really hate to say this but I think your best option is euthanasia. With teeth removed there will be problems with the alignment of the other teeth which can also cause pain and infection. I don't think you are going to be able to maintain your chinchilla's teeth long term.

If you wish to keep going you need a proper recovery diet such as Oxbow critical care. It must be syringe fed. You should obtain supplies and dosing instructions from your vet. Your chinchilla requires a very specialized diet right now. The pain from the tooth removal may be causing it to stop eating.

Antibiotics cause damage to the microbial life needed for digestion. Even with probiotics the best management is make sure the intestines have something to work on and ensure the intestines keep flowing.

I'm sorry you are faced with this kind of an issue. I pray it all works out well for you.

64
Cages / Re: Good cages in Ireland?
« on: January 28, 2018, 08:49:54 PM »
I think you can get the Ferret Nation model 182. Look for aftermarket metal pans. Do not use the plastic pans or the wire ramps it comes with and it makes an excellent cage.

65
Health / Re: White milky urine
« on: January 12, 2018, 08:13:40 AM »
Personally I think you should have an exam and check for infection as well as vaginal/uterine infection, which can be very serious so the sooner you get a diagnosis the better.

As far as too much calcium I wouldn't be concerned about that unless you are giving supplements or an improper diet.
What kind of diet are you feeding?

What kind of watering system are you using? Have you made sure it is dispensing? Inadequate water can sometimes lead to bladder/kidney infections.

Hope this helps.

66
General Chat / Re: 10 years
« on: December 23, 2017, 09:16:09 AM »
Could happen. Sorry for your loss though.

67
General Chat / Re: 10 years
« on: December 21, 2017, 09:15:31 PM »
That's awesome. Sounds like you're doing a great job.

68
Web site Reviews / Re: Pet Blog: Feedback Wanted
« on: December 10, 2017, 08:54:30 AM »
That's great. Thanks for the citation.

69
Q & A / Re: That time of year again
« on: December 08, 2017, 10:27:28 AM »
The chinchilla club recommends not allowing chinchilla to range free outside of small designated 'chin proof' areas. Having access to artificial or real pine trees can easily result in ingestion of dangerous materials. Wiring and lighting is extremely dangerous for chinchillas to chew on. The best way to keep chinchillas away is to wall them off with play pen barriers or enclose them in a chin proof room.

70
Web site Reviews / Re: Pet Blog: Feedback Wanted
« on: December 08, 2017, 10:24:54 AM »
About chinchilla kits: Seems to be mostly accurate to me.

The chinchilla club discourages attempts to breed pet chinchillas for a couple of reasons. First is that there is a standard of quality that the chinchilla industry would like to maintain. Low quality animals are much smaller, have muddy or dull colors, and tend to have congenital defects and are prone to heart problems, seizures, and malocclusion, which is where the teeth and jaws are not aligned properly. Malocclusion is a big killer of chinchillas that are a few months old. It's incurable and terminal. So the experience of people who receive these kits is oftentimes very bad, and heartbreaking.

The parents of the kits must be compatible with each other as well. There are genetic and size differences that can result in miscarriages, and can result with a kit too large to pass. Sometimes the mother (dam) will die as a direct result of improper breeding and dietary practices, and sometimes they can die through the normal course of breeding. There are also additional cage and dietary requirements, and other things that must be considered with breeding.

Perhaps you should add that chinchillas should never be intentionally bred without extensive knowledge of proper breeding practices. To increase chance of survival it may be best to recommend getting advice from experienced breeders. There are many unusual circumstances that can emerge that must be dealt with quickly. I can recommend some groups if you would like.

CAGES:
Larger isn't always better for chinchillas, although I didn't always think this. They can climb and jump onto high ledges and fall and seriously injure themselves. The FN182 (The one I use) is a good sized cage. If both levels are connected there should be some barrier that prevents them from easily falling the height of both levels. I think you've mentioned this. Good job on presenting different opinions.

There are also aftermarket metal pans for the FN182 available that make it usable. Do not use the wire ramps it comes with, even with the fleece covers. The covers come off/ get dislodged to easily.

Wire mesh floors are good if the correct bar spacing (no larger than 1/2" x 1/2") is used. If they have wood shelving (always recommended) they will spend more time on the shelf than the floor. Wire mesh ramps or shelves are very dangerous and should never be used. Please present this fact. Wire ramps are extremely destructive and I see cases every year from preventable accidents with them. They are not needed. Chins can jump several feet straight up.

Other than that from a quick glance it looks good.

71
South West USA / Re: re-homing a breeding herd. We have 30 more.
« on: November 03, 2017, 07:41:14 AM »
Congratulations. That's great.

72
Q & A / Re: Have you ever re-homed a chinchilla? Why?
« on: October 30, 2017, 07:42:48 PM »
I'm not sure if there is much hope for improvement. Perhaps they'll settle down a bit once they're assigned sections. And you can try to put splash guards in the worst places. There probably won't be more than one or two places since chinchillas develop a habit of urinating in one spot under normal conditions.
Something you might try is to get a metal pan and put some bedding in it, make sure it's cushy. Let the bedding in the pan get soiled. When you change it out put some of the soiled bedding back in. This might help establish a corner to urinate in as chinchillas normally assign themselves one place.

73
Cages / Re: Making my Own Ledges. Where to get wood? (UK)
« on: October 30, 2017, 07:31:02 PM »
White wood boards are my weapon of choice for shelving. I am not from the UK so I can't help much there. White pine or white wood is the same thing. Aspen works. Don't use red pine.

74
Q & A / Re: Chinchilla waking up later than usual
« on: October 28, 2017, 07:48:31 PM »
I recommend putting lights on a timer 12 hours on and 12 hours off. This should establish a pattern. Maybe. You'll just have to try it. Then you can adjust the cycle. My chins' lights are on a timer.

A chinchilla is going to be active mostly right before sun up and right after darkness. During the day chinchillas usually sleep. For them this will be lights on.

75
Q & A / Re: Chinchilla waking up later than usual
« on: October 26, 2017, 08:25:48 PM »
Chinchillas (and all mammals) are sensitive to day-light cycles and activity patterns. If the lamps are on at certain times a day they will consider that the same as morning and night. So consider that. They should have no more than 12 hours of light per day. You could experiment with that. Do not subject them to large sudden swings in day-night patterns. It could be dangerous for them.

I've never noticed any real consistency in my own pets. They are usually most active after I turn out the lights for bed, and in the morning when I wake up, which is not too consistent either, but they get excited when I get up because they get petted and visit each other through the bars. During the day they'll wander around several times getting food and even playing. If I put one in the dust bath the other one always gets excited no matter what time of day because he knows he's next.

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